Category: <span>American</span>

littleparkIn recent years, David Chang, Rich Torrisi, Mario Carbone have taken over the New York culinary scene like a storm. All their establishments have been extremely successful, tables are continually high in demand, and food is outstanding too. They have become the new super stars in the culinary world, household names, even if you are not into the food scene, but if you live in New York, you would have heard of the names of at least one of their restaurants. They have changed the landscape of New York food scene. Behind the success of these rock stars, we have one guy to thank for (in part), a man who David Chang, Rich Torrisi and Mario Carbone consider as mentor- Chef Andrew Carmellin. A lesser known name, but a name we should know, and his restaurants have been popping up in lower Manhattan too.

The 2 times James Beard Awards winning chef made his name during his time at Café Boulud. After his Michelin star winning venue A Voce, Chef Andrew Carmellin partnered with NoHo Hospitality group and gave us Locanda Verde, the Dutch, Lafayette (By the way, I adore Lafayette), Bar Primi, and most recently, Little Park at the Robert DeNiro’s Tribeca hotel The Smyth. All of these restaurants are participating in restaurant week, and we chose Little Park for lunch. 
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Little Park is a good looking place. Golden-wood toned, marble topped bar, golden lighting, flower box at the big window pouring in sunlight, to me, it very much resembled Lafayette, same vibe, different ways. It is posh and energetic.
This sleek, blondish hotel restaurant opened in November 2014. It is veggie/ health food focused. The vegetables here are excellent. It might not be as innovative or mind-blowing as Blue Hill, but it is still fascinating. The kohirabi salad is crisp, juicy as it can be. And the Brussels sprouts, so nicely done that we could have that as entrée. Honestly that was the highlight of my lunch. And I wouldn’t be mad if it ended there. I think the Brussel sprouts are poached before it is fried. Tender all the way to its core, while the outer layer is crispy as chips. And there were different sauce at the bottom of the bowl, I think on one side is apple cider vignette, and the other could be smoked mayo, every bite keep us guessing, and we truly enjoy it.

Kohirab (bottom)i- pear, hazelnut, roasted garlic Crispy brussel sprouts (top)- smoked parsnip, apple cider
Kohirab (bottom)i- pear, hazelnut, roasted garlic
Crispy brussel sprouts (top)- smoked parsnip, apple cider

Arctic char- meyer lemon, mustard, pancetta
Arctic char- meyer lemon, mustard, pancetta
Salmon is very nicely cooked, moist, tender, but the skin could be crispier. And I could use an extra drop of lemon juice. That’s just me, I like sour.

 

Grass fed hanger steak- apple, cabbage, beer
Grass fed hanger steak- apple, cabbage, beer
The steak looks a little dry, but it is at no fault of the kitchen. My friend like the steak done… well done. However, I do think it needs a little more seasoning. And the cabbage on the side stole the spot light, soft, sweet, and so juicy.

Chocolate cake (bottom)- orange pekoe ice cream Grapefruit sorbet (top)- old time fin, bruleed citrus
Chocolate cake (bottom)- orange pekoe ice cream
Grapefruit sorbet (top)- old time fin, bruleed citrus

Chocolate cake is excellent. It’s crunchy on the outside, moist on the inside. It’s not overly sweet. The grapefruit is lightly torched or bruleed. With sorbet, absolutely refreshing. The latte I had with dessert could use some more work. 
Once again appetizers stand our more than entrée. The veggies are the stars here. It is a lovely lunch. And it was restaurant week menu only. I am excited to see what dinner would be like.
 

 

 

little park | Smyth Hotel, 85 W Broadway | New York restaurant week Winter lunch | Jan, 2016
 

rnb00This year’s restaurant week came early. Instead of starting in February, it surprised us in mid January. And as winter weather finally arrive, we are in need of comfort food. So screw that new year resolution, I need some fried chicken.

Root and bone is a cute little place in Alphabet City. This much hyped place open back in mid 2014, offering southern comfort food. Mainly fried chickens and waffles, grits, devil eggs, the goods. Afterall the chef/owner couple did made their reputation at Yardbird, Miami. I am a big fan of Yardbird by the way. However, it seems like Chef Jeff Mclnnis and Janine Booth didn’t want to be linked to the South Beach restaurant that earned them the James Beard nomination. Check out the root & bone website, there were no mention of the framed restaurant on their website. Perhaps they didn’t want to be compared?

Yardbird isn’t the only place we got to know this pair of picture perfect couple. They did both appeared on “Top Chef”. Jeff was on 5th season, and Janine was on the 11th. They didn’t win. But looks like they won each other. It’s an interesting read, their story, it’s like reading page 6 of the cooking world.

But enough of the gossip, i’m here for fried chicken.
Restaurant week menu is offered for both lunch and dinner at Root & bone. But both are the same. In that case, of course I show up for lunch. The little narrow door on 3rd street opened into bakery like front- take out counter. Small “foyer”, just enough to stand 4 people with no apparent Reception area. Thru a small door way, it’s the main dinning room, with open kitchen and a eating bar. I chose to sit in the smaller dinning room by the bar. It’s like a little breakfast nook. With sunlights beaming in, and heat blasting, it feels more like a chill spring morning than a freezing winter afternoon.

birds as deco, of course
birds as deco, of course

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different horns double as tap handles at the bar
different horns double as tap handles at the bar

 

The place is adorable, feels like I am sitting in the kitchen in an farm house. Aged White oak or birch wood cupboard and bar; exposed brick painted in white, edison light bulbs hanging from the sliver polished tile ceiling. Little birch wood tables paired with steel chairs, rustic, warm and comfortable.
I sat down by the bar and watched the room slowly warming up.

 

rnb07Promise ring– white whiskey, green apple, elderflower and lemon.
It’s very light. Perfect for early afternoon drink. What. Too early?!? It’s 1:00 already.

 

root & boneDrunken Deviled Eggs– Catskills farm eggs, pickled roots and chips
Egg white is pale pink. Creamy yolk is stabbed by a crispy chip. I don’t think there is ever a deviled egg that’s not good. So simple yet so satisfying.

 

rnb17Root & Bone’s award winning fried chicken and waffles, sweet tea brined, lemon dusted, spiked Tabasco honey and buckwheat cheese waffles with whiskey maple syrup.

 

This is the dish that supposedly earned chef McInnis the nod. The dish that I’d fly to Miami for (among other things).
Chicken and waffle arrived in a basket, along with whiskey maple syrup and tabasco spiked honey. The wheat waffle is placed with a piece of cheddar, half melting. The zest of Lemon made the whole plate smells good. And so, the famous chicken… Here at root and bone, they let you chose white/ dark meat. Me? Always dark meat. Dark meat tend to be more tender. If root & bone is anything like Yardbird, given my experience there, it should not matter whether it’s dark or white. Sorry, hard no to compare. I got a thigh and a leg. However, this famous chicken was a bit of a disappointment. Dry… And too much crust. The skin was fried too long and had became tough. Can’t even cut through with a knife. There’s no moisture in the meat anymore. Where is that faintly sweetened, juicy, tender, award winning chicken? That should be where the house made spicy sauce came in. The sauce taste like a mild spicy version of the sweet and sour duck sauce.

 

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On the positive side, root and bone’s restaurant week menu comes with more than 3 course. Other than the appetizer and main course, they also give the table a side dish. Two choices, Mac and cheese or grits. I got the grits.
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rnb26Citrus custard- blood orange sorbet, pistachio grahams & crunchy meringue.

 

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All in all, for $25, it is still a good deal! Wait, there’s still dessert to come. And after a heavy meal, the blood orange sorbet is a better choice.
So, since summer 2014, New York has upped the chicken game. There are way more choices and players in the game. Looks like Jeff and Janine have works to do. But for the moment, let’s just say, I just planed a trip to Miami.

 

root & bone | 200 E 3rd St | New York Restaurant Week Winter | Jan, 2016 | lunch

untitled00 Ever since the New Whitney museum opened next to the High Line park in May 2015, we were excited to pay a visit to the museum’s ground floor restaurant by Danny Meyer, Untitled. Whitney is the second museum to choose Danny Meyer’s operation, the first one is Modern at MOMA, which we love heartedly! We came close once, when we dined at Santina, we got a sneak peak at the “glass box” restaurant, but it took us half a year to circle back in.
The Renzo Piano-designed Whitney Museum is a contemporary building with an industrial character. It’s asymmetrical ground floor entrance created a convenient tucked away space for the restaurant. It’s floor to ceiling glass exterior put the restaurant in full display for every patrons and museum goers that pass by, and vice versa. The cement floor on the street transition to bluestone in the restaurant. During warm season, when out-door dinning is appropriated, it makes outdoor/ indoor dining seamless. The large doom overheard lamp and the “EAT” light box above the bar makes this clean-line design restaurant ties in well with the museum and eye pleasing. But, there’s always a but.
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No offense to Mr. Renzo Piano, we can called this museum restaurant very cleverly designed, or, it was an afterthought. The space is already there, let’s put up glass panel to block the perimeter and call it a day. And once we settled down, we felt that this minimalism could use some touch up. First, those cute little red chairs are very uncomfortable. It sits too low for the “sleek” wood furnish table. Stone floor makes rainy days messy and slippery. Glassware feels like cheap plastic. And the bathroom, I’ll only say that the bathroom at ikea feels expensive to this one.

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I have to say, I was a little more agitated than usual on the night we visited Untitled, and those chairs really didn’t help. Also, our service was slow. Yes, it took me more than a minute to decided what I want from the underwhelming cocktail list, but our server didn’t make his way back until 20 minutes later. The bread basket, didn’t make it’s landing until moments before our appetizers arrived.
While the wine list looks extensive, the cocktail list is limited and needs work. There were only 5 selection, all were less than inviting. The night’s special was a French red, which was nice. When we finally got our bread, the butter that came with it was tasteless. I know I sound very bitter at this point, but all is not lost, thanks to the appetizers, because they are amazing.
The menu by Michael Anthony (of Gramercy Tavern) is divided into 4 sections with no section labels. I suppose I can call them snacks, appetizers, vegetables, and entrees. Each have 5 selections, and there were 6 desserts to pick at.

untitled08Beef tartare, chestnut, delicata squash

untitled09Cured fluke, carrot, preserved lime

untitled10Carolina rice fritters, chicken liver, pickled carrots

We very much enjoyed the very creamy beef tartare. The squash and those crunchy crumbles make great contrast texture for the dish. So remember I said the butter was tasteless? Well, forget butter, we found ourselves dipping the bread in the carrot- lime sauce from the cured fluke. Fluke, while it’s sweet and fresh by itself, became a perfect carrier for this mouth watering sauce. The round fritters are dense yet moist, and packs a little heat, though I have no idea where the chicken liver went. And look at these colors, they are undeniably beautiful.

So entrees… we were struggling to choose. We narrowed down to maybe the black bass and/or monkfish, so we asked for suggestion. Our waiter suggested that we split the chicken. He said the menu changes very frequently, but the chicken remain the best seller, and it would be enough for the two of us. Despilte our doubt, we trusted him, and he was right about the portion. The chicken 2 ways was already splited up before it made its way to our table. By the look of it, each plate could have been by itself. The roasted chicken was very moist, and tender. But the fried chicken was … while it’s very crunchy, and not oil dipping. It was… dry. Almost like it’s got suck out of all it’s air, and became waterless, lifeless crispy, jerky meat. And the vegetables bed was salty, way way too salty. So salty that we couldn’t bare more than one bite. What a disappointment! With this so highly praised dish. And what happen with the beautiful color we saw from the appetizers?

untitled13Roasted and fried chicken, kale, radicchio

At this point, we are an hour and half into our dinner. Our backs and bottoms were starting to hurt, and the entree is not making up for the uncomfortableness. We were going to skip on dessert, especially when the strawberry-ricotta pound cake which was highly recommended by Adam Platt is not even on the list, we opted for the Triple chocolate chunk cookie, which, has been buzzing on the internet.
The triple layer cookie came with a tiny mason jar of milk. Cookie was very soft. Crumbles layered with melting chocolate. It sounds very sweets, but thanks to the added salt, it finds its balance. It is a very good cookie, but we definetly have had better elsewhere. And that mason jar… are we suppose to dip the cookie? Jar mouth is not wide enough… hmmm.

Triple chocolate chunk cookie with milk
Triple chocolate chunk cookie with milk

Untitled | 99 Gansevoort Street, Meatpacking District | Dec, 2015

chloeThanks to El Nino, our December has been uncharacteristically warm. We took advantage of the delayed winter and went to By Chloe for a quick lunch. Antiques little blue lamp with old fashion black and white strip awning. Swing chairs in the front. How adorable is that!

And evidently, everyone were thinking the same thing. We arrived around 1:30pm. The line was out the door. There’s a long commute table crowed by young professional re are a handful of little coffee tables along the wall and by the window. But by the look of it, we were no hope in getting a seat. Luckily, table turn around time was quite quick at this semi-self-serve place. Interestingly, nearly every patrons are women. Does that have anything to do with this being a vegan/ vegetarian place?!
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By Chloe, opened earlier this summer by a Californian- Chloe, who won an episode on “Cupcake Wars” without using eggs, milk or butter, is of course a vegan. But the successful part of the vegetarian restaurant is, you don’t care there’s no meat in it. I always have doubt in vegetarian food. I know it is a misconception but I always think I would still be hungry after I ate, and/or it would be just salad. I’m not a fan of salad. At By Chloe, there are burgers, so we gave it a try.

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On the way to the register, there is a refrigerator that “showcased” fresh cold beverages: squeeze juices $9.50 a bottle? , meanwhile, a whole coconut is only $4.50.?
So they blew Strumptown coffee here too…. Slow drip. But half n half is extra…. it’s made of cashew and almond cream blend, $1.50 extra.

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After order, we were handed a round device, very much like the one you get at Olive Garden, Outback or Panera bread. “It might take a while” I told my friend. I was watching other people’s order. There’s this girl sitting at the long commute table. She had been there and got the device before we walked in the door. But by the time we ordered our food and sat down, her device still haven’t buzz. It had been a good 20 minutes.

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WHISKEY BBQ $10.95
smoky portobello mushrooms & seitan, suteed kale, onion marmalade, grilled pineapple, bourbon bbq, potato bun

chloe11THE GUAC BURGER $9.95
black bean-quinoa sweet potato patty, corn salsa, onion, guac, tortilla strips, chipotle aioli, whole grain bun

Our order took about 25 minutes. I had the whiskey bbq which has portobello mushroom and grilled pineapple. It was good, but a bit too sweet on the bourbon bbq sauce. Plenty of mushroom, very “meaty”. For $10, I’m quite satisfied. The side condiment are extremely delicious as well. Love the beet ketchup and especially the chipotle aioli. They should think about selling it by the can. Although my burger didn’t need extra sauce, I found myself keep putting chipotle sauce on the bun.
My friend had the Guac burger and some sweet potato fries, but the air-baked fries are soggy?. I guess that’s why the beets ketchup is so good.

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(Dec, 2015)