Yup, I said it. Marta is my new favorite pizza place. Danny Meyer and chef Nick Anderer has delivered a slice straight to my heart. Oh why? You say. New York has endless choices of pizza. Yes, I have not sample them all. But I’m just saying, the thin crust pie at Marta has won my heart over, thus far.
Roman style, the pies coming out from the black tiled chimneys is light, thin, and crispy. Yes, new yorker pride over our thin-crust pizza. But this is thinner than the thin we know of. And crispy, almost cracker/ chip like. And it is not floppy!!! It holds its own. And stays crisp, unbend-ed. Whatever the toppings might be, won’t be dropping everywhere when you lift it one handed at the edge. And that tip of the triangle held its head too!!
It appears that Chef Nick Anderer and his crew has mastered this thin, cracker-like crusted, roman pizzas. But it is hard to imagine Marta as a pizza place. We are in the open lobby of the recently renovated framed Martha Washington Hotel, which once was the first women only hotel in the whole USA. A pioneer of its time, now a trend setter. Like any Danny Meyer’s establishment, it is high end. The room is light and bright. High ceiling, marble bar, floor to ceiling window that can be open into sidewalk, the décor is a bit cold but elegant. Don’t have a table yet? Grab a drink at the bar. And plenty of people just eat there. Or even better, grab a seat at the marble “breakfast” bar, where you can oversee the whole kitchen including the 2 wood fired pizza ovens, where the pizza god is smiling.
Marta not only serve pizza. It is a full restaurant and appetizers as just as good. The green risotto croquettes is a little heavy, but very tasty. The golden crust croquettes is every bit of crunchy. At the night we were there, Marta didn’t have the revved rabbit meatball, but the chicken meatballs is very good as chicken goes. Moist, juicy and the soft ricotta is incredible. We didn’t order any entree, but we had a red pie and a white pie. The sauce in the stracciatella pie is superb. Flavorful tomatoes and fresh basil, it is simple, but yet so balance. Just the right amount of sauce so the crust stays crunchy, and not dripping all over. Fantastic!!! the carbonara is more filling and nothing less of excellent. It didn’t have an egg on it like all the picture we have seen on instagram. When asked, we were told that the egg has been beaten and mixed into the pie. Want that yolk flowing egg on top? That would have to be requested.Well, could have let us know. And since we are on the topic, we found the service though friendly, but a bit slow. It is a big crowded room, but doesn’t seems to have enough staff. We often have chase down (with our eyes) to get our orders in or water refilled. And by the way, although Danny Meyer said he has implemented the no topping policy at all of his establishment, we later confirmed that is only at Modern. Gratitude is still very much appreciated at all restaurants under the Union Square Hospitality group except Modern.
Thanks to El Nino, our December has been uncharacteristically warm. We took advantage of the delayed winter and went to By Chloe for a quick lunch. Antiques little blue lamp with old fashion black and white strip awning. Swing chairs in the front. How adorable is that!
And evidently, everyone were thinking the same thing. We arrived around 1:30pm. The line was out the door. There’s a long commute table crowed by young professional re are a handful of little coffee tables along the wall and by the window. But by the look of it, we were no hope in getting a seat. Luckily, table turn around time was quite quick at this semi-self-serve place. Interestingly, nearly every patrons are women. Does that have anything to do with this being a vegan/ vegetarian place?!
By Chloe, opened earlier this summer by a Californian- Chloe, who won an episode on “Cupcake Wars” without using eggs, milk or butter, is of course a vegan. But the successful part of the vegetarian restaurant is, you don’t care there’s no meat in it. I always have doubt in vegetarian food. I know it is a misconception but I always think I would still be hungry after I ate, and/or it would be just salad. I’m not a fan of salad. At By Chloe, there are burgers, so we gave it a try.
On the way to the register, there is a refrigerator that “showcased” fresh cold beverages: squeeze juices $9.50 a bottle? , meanwhile, a whole coconut is only $4.50.?
So they blew Strumptown coffee here too…. Slow drip. But half n half is extra…. it’s made of cashew and almond cream blend, $1.50 extra.
After order, we were handed a round device, very much like the one you get at Olive Garden, Outback or Panera bread. “It might take a while” I told my friend. I was watching other people’s order. There’s this girl sitting at the long commute table. She had been there and got the device before we walked in the door. But by the time we ordered our food and sat down, her device still haven’t buzz. It had been a good 20 minutes.
THE GUAC BURGER $9.95
black bean-quinoa sweet potato patty, corn salsa, onion, guac, tortilla strips, chipotle aioli, whole grain bun
Our order took about 25 minutes. I had the whiskey bbq which has portobello mushroom and grilled pineapple. It was good, but a bit too sweet on the bourbon bbq sauce. Plenty of mushroom, very “meaty”. For $10, I’m quite satisfied. The side condiment are extremely delicious as well. Love the beet ketchup and especially the chipotle aioli. They should think about selling it by the can. Although my burger didn’t need extra sauce, I found myself keep putting chipotle sauce on the bun.
My friend had the Guac burger and some sweet potato fries, but the air-baked fries are soggy?. I guess that’s why the beets ketchup is so good.
It has been a little over 2 years since Cagen opened at the old Kajitsu’s location in East Village. It remains a neighborhood hidden gem until this year’s Michelin list revealed. Cagen is run by Chef Toshio Tomita, who was the corporate managing chef for Nobu. At Cagen, the Tokyo born chef got his first star under his name. This newly found “stardom” has yet fill seats, I didn’t have any trouble getting a reservation. But at Cagen, keeping a reservation is the key! We were told that the cancellation policy is 72 hours prior because all the fished are ordered and flown in from Japan. Diner would be charged full price if reservation is a no show. Moreover, we need to inform Cagen which one of the two Omakase we would be having, so the most premium freshest ingredients would be prepared diners.
On the night we were there, there are very few staffs at sight. Only Chef Tomita, sous chef and two other staffs. We arrived almost 40 minutes late at the semi-basement level restaurant on a quiet evening. The staffs were very patient and accommodating. The only other party at Cagen had already sat in front of Chef Tomita, and began their course. Since we were late, we can’t be chooser. We sat on the other end of the 10 seats counter sushi bar. The space is zen… actually almost the same as the old Kajitsu. Take a closer look, we found Totoro everywhere. That might be the only thing that Chef Tomita had done to this place in terms of deco. Fan of Hayao Miyazaki? Me too!!
Dassai sake flight is only $35. No brainer!!!
Chawanmushi with radish and squash
We started our Omakase with chawanmushi. A couple dices of winter squash in it. Perfect! Simple but to the point. And the simpleness really bring out the freshness of the ingredient. Not that those chawanmushi with truffle and uni are not good, but sometimes it clouded the dish, and made it far too complicated. Sometimes, less is more.
Before us is a slab of fine polished wood which Sushi and ginger were presented on. Ginger, such a simple thing, a common thing to overlook at sushi places. Here at Cagen, they take it seriously. To our surprise, there were 2 kinds of pickled ginger. I absolutely love the thick cut! So fresh, and so perfectly balanced!
Also look at the wasabi, still hydrogenating in water, keeping it fresh!
Since we were told fishes were flown in from Japan and it’s hash cancellation policy, we were excited for what were about to have. And let me just say this first, the varieties of fish did not disappointed. Some of the names, we have not even heard before. Here it is, piece by piece.
Hadai (Japanese snapper) with Yuzu, sea salt and a drop of plum paste sauce.
The combination is genius! The balance with sour, sweet, and salty paying a little wake up call to our taste bud, and it brought out the sweetness of Hadai without overpowering it.
Hirame (Japanese fluke) with ponzu and jalapeño
White fish usually tend to be a bit blend, but Hirame is in season.? Hirame is thinly sliced but double stacked. It enhanced the texture, almost crunchy.
Akayagara (cornet fish)
Very sweet and tender???
Tsumuburi (Rainbow runner)
A member of the yellowtail family. Much like Amberjacks, it’s soft and fatty. This one with a drop of honey mustard. So tender and buttery. Almost like Toro.
Menuke (Japanese red perch) aka Red Rockfish.
The fish looks a lot like Kinmedai, texture is similar too. Menuke is a deep sea, winter fish. Fatty, and extremely tender. The Menuke here at Cagen was smoked. Adding very unique smoky favor. Love it!!!
Japanese octopus With a drop of yuzu
Nodoguro (blackthroat sea perch) with a hint of smoky flavor ??
Japanese butterfish
Crisp, fatty
Mahegari
A very rare silver skin small fish in Japanese deep sea and it is in season. Smoky, tender, and buttery???? I think I’m in love
Kumamoto oyster with sea salt and couple drops of yuzu. Just beautiful.
Smoked squid with yuzu garlic oil
Squid was marinated and lightly warmed to add texture. It is… al dente. ??
Tachiuo (Belt-fish)
From the family of hair-tail fish. Usually it is slightly cooked. This one was smoked, and it added a great aroma and flavor to this already rich piece.
Matsusaka beef
This gorgeous cut is lightly grilled. Chef also used a paper to gently absorb the extra oil, and added with sea salt and house-made crispy chilli pepper. OMG!!! could be the best chili sauce we have had. The crispness and the tenderness of the beef make the perfect couple.
Toro
Look at this beauty, need I say more?!
Chu Toro
Chu toro was marinated for 5 min and serve on a square cut of nori. We were told the nori was made with a special kind of salt.
Hokkaido uni
Up until this point, we were petty happy with our dinner. Sushi are fresh, unique, preparations are excellent. It is certainly worth that one Michelin star. But it was until Uni is served…
Hokkaido uni is served with nori. Nori was very crispy, enough to hear the cracking when chef was folding it. But the rice was a bit too warm and the moisture of it soften the crunch before it hits out mouth. And that is a big square of nori, in my book, too big for this. First bite, I could only got nori. When I finally got to the uni, nori was too strong, it overpowered uni. I must be kidding right? We are talking about uni. The rich, distinguish, velvety goodness got overpower by seaweed?! But have a look at it. One single tiny little scoop of uni atop a chunk of rice with oversize nori. Call me greedy, but I don’t think Hokkaido uni is that expensive that we can only afford this pathetic little one. And what bothered me the most is, when chef was making the uni sushi, he clearly put more uni on one of the pieces at first, but when he realized the portion of our pieces are uneven. He went and took out uni from that one that was slightly bigger. Well, chef, we were sitting right there at the sushi counter in front of you. Action is in full display here. …
Eel “sandwich”
There is a piece of foie gras wrapped inside the eel. Rich x Rich!!!.
Fatty tuna and Japanese pickles hand roll
The fatty tuna was a bit cold, and the rice was a bit warm. One thing I noticed was, the sushi rice here at Cagen are mixed in small portion. During our dinner, Chef had made 3 different bundle of rice. So temperature, and sweetness varies. For this hand roll, it was a bit too warm.
Tomago
This might be the first time I had Tomago wrapped in nori and with wasabi, and it works. The Tomago itself is very good. A different texture than the one from Nakasawa or 15 East. This is more custard-like, while the other are more sponge cake-like. Also, the Tomago was given a creme brulee treatment. It was layered with powdered sugar and torched 3 times. And I do like the wasabi with it.
So, as it turns out, sushi Omakase is not only sushi. Is it a bonus, or is it an attempt to fill us up. Either way, I am glad I had the house-made soba .
The broth was great! Rich but clear. Very comforting. The duck was good, and the scallion was even better. Soba is house-made fresh by Chef Tomita himself from hand-ground wheat. Excellent texture. Better than a lot of soba places in town.
Yuzu sorbet
There were two choices of dessert, green tea ice cream or yuzu sorbet. Of course, the always refreshing yuzu sorbet. Yuzu sorbet is served with pomegranate mandarin grape Asia pear and grape and olive oil. That’s right! Not olive oil sorbet, but actually pouring olive oil over yuzu sorbet. It was amazing. The olive oil helps make the sorbet creamy and gives it a smooth texture. I could have a bucket of this.