O Ya NYC- first look, plate by plate

Last updated on June 8, 2016

The famed, much appraised Boston restaurant just opened a new out post in NYC last month (June 5th). Adjacent to the Park South Hotel, if you weren’t paying attention, you would walk right pass it. Although it is a Park South Hotel restaurant, it operates completely separately. The door to O Ya is right next to the Park South Hotel entrance. Hidden behind some brunches and a little wood wall divider. It is like a hidden oasis, a very zen place. Through the door, is a large, long dinning room. Huge long wood sushi counter, and cozy booths on the side. It is warm, quiet, and elegant.
We have heard a lot about O Ya. It was named one of the most exceptional omakase menu by Eater in 2012. It’s Chef- owner Tim Cushman is an acclaimed chef whom has many awards under his belt, including being named Best Chef in Northeast region by James Beard Foundation in 2012. we have high expectation but yet don’t know what to expect.
The menu here is basically just a wine list. The price tags of sake are quite reasonable. For the moment there are no a la carte, just 2 sets of omakase. 18 courses for $185; 24 courses for $245. It is pricy, no doubt about it. But we know it would be a splurge and we were told that the 24 courses would include all of the 18 courses, plus several more seasonal dishes. More sushi!!! Of course we chose the later. And here it is , plate by plate.

KUMAMOTO OYSTER – ponzu watermelon pearls, cucumber mignonette
served in a steam cage. It is meant to slurp all in one. Ponzu and watermelon were equally sweet and sour. Paired very nicely with the oyster.

HAMACHI – banana pepper
hamachi was lightly torched. Topped with garnish. Hamachi was already put together with sushi rice when it was torched. There were a little burn on the rice. Hamachi was not sweet as I expected. Rice was a little mushy as well.

OCEAN TROUT– tomato confit, smoked salt, onion aioli
smoked salt smell very good. Tomato and aioli compliment the trout very well. A little creamy. Very interesting.

LEGS AND EGGS
– tiny Maine lobster, ossetra caviar, tomalley aioli

WARM EEL
– thai basil, kabayaki, fresh Kyoto sansho

HOUSEMADE FINGERLING POTATO CHIP
– black winter truffle

KAMASU
– oven roasted tomato, yuzu

WILD SPOT PRAWN
– ramp butter, yuzu tobiko, preserved meyer lemon

LEEK BLOSSOM OMELETTE
– turkey egg, dashi sauce, wagyu schmaltz
notice that this is omelette not tomago.

FRIED KUMAMOTO OYSTER
– yuzu kosho aioli, squid link bubbles

BLUEFIN TORO
– fresh wasabi, green onion

FOIE SPOON
– miso, preserved California meyer lemon
this is very interesting. Rich, light, salty, lemony, and sweet… not all at the same time, but it unveiled layer by layer in my mouth.

SHIMA AJI & HOKKAIDO SEA URCHIN
– aji amarillo vinaigrette, nigella

KINMEDAI
– white soy, myoga, lemon oil

KANPACHI
– vietnamese mignonette, fried shallots, thai basil

YUZU CURED ARCTIC CHAR
– cumin aioli, cilantro
Steam cage again. This time it was uncover after the cage was brought to us. Open the lid, and smoke starts coming out. Whatever they use to smoke the char, the aroma it gives out is “breathtaking”. And there are two pieces per each person.

TORO TARTAR
– winter black truffle

SUZUKI SEA BASS
– spicy cucumber, avocado, cilantro blossoms

SIP
– tomato shiso kombu water
almost tea like… i like this a lot

SHISO TEMPURA WITH GRILLED LOBSTER
– charred tomato, ponzu aioli

GRILLED CHANTERELLE & SHITAKE MUSHROOM
– rosemary garlic oil, sesame froth

SEARED WAGYU AS PETIT STRIP LOIN
-potato confit, sea salt
perfectly seared wagyu. You can see there is a thin rim of fat around each little chunk. Not chewing needed, it just melt.

FOIE GRAS
– balsamic chocolate kabayaki, claudio corallo raisin cocoa pulp, 8 year aged sake
the age sake is very sweet when I tasted it by itself. I first took a slip of the sake, then the foie gras in my mouth in one piece. Let it melt. Then drink the rest of the sake after. Then the sake didn’t taste as sweet as before. Very well balance the foie gras. Well play, well play!

SUMMER BERRIES & SOBA
– buckwheat honey ice cream, & lavender

ASSORTED PASTRIES
berries cream puff, sesame cookies, and little donut with green tea power. I love the cookie, so soft and just dissolve in my mouth.

I guess I was having my third piece when I realized this is not my regular traditional sushi joint. It is… innovative. This is more Gari than Yasuda or 15 East. O Ya is using western technique to prepare the ingredient and put on top sushi rice as sushi. There were quiet a few aioli, form and sauce. While each piece are surprisingly good, I cannot compare to my other sushi experience.
Most of the fish pieces are not as tasty as other places with similar price tag. The rice is a little mushy, and the balance of vinegar in the rice needs improvement. The nori lacks that crunch, they were simply there to help holding up the piece. And the sequence, was a little all over the place. We have eel as the 5th piece, and Kinmeda after uni!?! And there were some, I might say a little over the top. The Toro tartar with the black truffle, as cute as it is. For tasting purpose, I can totally do without the truffle. The potato chip with truffle, I think I enjoy looking at it more.
While the staffs are extremely friendly and attentive, it lacks that chef- customer connection I would get from 15 East, yasuda, Ichimura. Therefore table service are just the same as sushi counter experience. This is more like set menu/ tasting menu than omakase.
Don’t get me wrong, I did enjoyed the meal, just not what I expected. Yes, fishes might not be as good, but with their preparation, the combination and flavor profile they created using dressing, aioli and garnish makes up the difference. Sushi here is extravagant. Each piece is stunningly beautiful. Each one is served in a different plate. ever plate is a little piece of art. Obviously they put in a lot of thoughts into plating. While this doesn’t satisfy my sushi craving/ addiction, it is a very surprisingly good meal. And it exceeded my expectation. I can understand why O Ya is so well loved. It is new, creative, and innovative.
It’s different, but different can be good. We would definitely come back, but next time I would not put my sushi thinking cap on.
(July, 2015)